LIVING COLOR: This spring, fashion goes full spectrum.
“Blue is the new black,” said a male dinner companion to me just the other night. I smiled and nodded with inward dissent—no hue, no matter how happy or perky or royal or cool, could ever vie for hanger space with my eternally chic black keepers. Sure, I’ve got streaks of indigo, fuchsia and lipstick red hanging around somewhere…a little color, after all, is essential to preventing us going all “Greta Garbo” and “pulling the shades down tight” (just a little something from my horoscope this morning). But the idea of a color, however pretty, replacing black as the color of fashion is a flash in the pan like acid-wash jeans, right? Well, if the scene from San Francisco’s Union Square is any indication, my beloved black has got the blues.
Blue, it seems, truly is having a moment. (Delamina’s own Amy Gurvitz recently highlighted the trend in jewelry.) Downtown, the blues seem almost contagious: Royal peacoats have replaced the Burberry trench, navy leather totes are the new black carryall and cobalt suede platforms draw the eye to street level. The New York Times noted the trend on the street some weeks ago, pointing out that just a drop of azure adds flavor to a dark ensemble. Indeed, the streets of San Francisco look much the same way—a sea of black and gray newly jazzed by high-pitched blue notes.
While mortals may seek just a dash of color to ward off the Holly Golightly “mean reds,” the spring runways had a little something different in mind. There, at shows like Calvin Klein and Alberta Ferretti, the blue mood washed over from head to toe, pilfering pieces traditionally reserved for neutrals. At Calvin, a single sheath dress, perfected with strict origami folds and reimagined in vibrant electric blue, clamored for the spotlight in an awfully white show. At Ferretti, a brood of blues from slate to sapphire marched onto my wish list with monochrome looks for day, swingy happy hour numbers and electrified evening stunners including a charmeuse maxi skirt and one Grecian gown sent special delivery from the gods on Olympus.
Perhaps the blue moment came in anticipation of a new democratic president; I suspect it will enjoy a stately term. But as the newest pundit for democratic fashion continues to express, blue isn’t the only belle at the ball. In a lemongrass sheath and coat, compliments of designer Isabel Toledo, the First Lady lit up Inauguration Day. Toledo, whose color cast a hopeful dye seen round the world, isn’t the only designer in a mellow mindset: At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz opted for a dollop of mustard in a sculptural one-shoulder blouse. Dries Van Noten, meanwhile, made a punchy couple of marigold and purple. Orange is also heady in the cocktail this season, juicing up Parisienne meets Girl Scout garb at Louis Vuitton and laying low in pale sherbet at 3.1. Phillip Lim.
Be careful, though, because it’s a riot out there. When reaching for bracelets, platforms and earrings galore, consider this: Too much color can make you look like a fruit basket. Opt instead for neutral accessories like pearls and sculptural metals. Wood bangles and beads are ideal for that Vuitton safari vibe, while black and white geometric baubles make for perfect Warholian pop. Do go ahead and pile it on. This spring, glamour is in living color.
Tags: accessories, Alber Elbaz, Alberta Ferretti, Bauble Babble, baubles, bracelets, Burberry trench, Calvin Klein, color of fashion, Dries Van Noten, earrings, Holly Golightly, Inauguration Day, Isabel Toledo, Lanvin, linkedin, pearls, Phillip Lim, San Francisco's Union Square, trend in jewelry